The Peace After The Storm

Now that my journey through Berlin and Europe is over I feel it appropriate to take a few minutes to reflect on my experience.

I spent 4 months or 111 days on foreign soil. Mostly in Germany but there were many other places I visited. Amsterdam, Holland. Barcelona, Spain. Paris, France. Geneva, Switzerland. Prague, Czech Republic. Those are five of the worlds major cities which I managed to visit during my travels, four of them in only 10 days time. Then all the cities that I visited in Germany; Dessau, Hamburg, Potsdam, Wolfsburg, Essen, Cologne, Munich, Düsseldorf, Dresden, Bernau, Eberswalde, and of course Berlin. All in all I think sixteen cities in 4 months time is pretty special. Its something I will never do again in my entire life for that length of time.

I began this trip in the hotel room in Boston dreading leaving my family, girlfriend, life and everything behind to go to a strange place. But I couldn't be happier I went. I'm actually a little upset that its over. There was still so many things that I wanted to do. It was absolutely very difficult to be gone for that long. I missed everyone so much. But the things I learned and just the shear amount of culture I was exposed to makes it all worth it.

I said in the first post that I was not excited and I hoped landing in London was going to make everything feel better but at the time it didn't. I put on a smile and went on with it. The first two weeks were difficult but it got easier. I finally assimilated into life in Germany and although I missed everyone I learned to really enjoy life in Europe. In many ways it's better than American life. I could definitely see myself living in Europe at some point but who knows what the future holds. So life went on and I became good at German and settled in. Then before we knew it we had to leave. Back to America and back to really life. So in one sense I'm still a little upset about this trip but its for the opposite reason. I'm very happy to be home but I wish going back were easier.

Everything I learned while abroad will apply to my everyday life. From general politeness, to being accepting of foreigners, to all of the architecture facts I can handle, and so many different cultures. I loved Germany and can't wait to go back. I still have to visit Stuttgart and Frankfurt and then the many other European cities. Stockholm, Oslo, Copenhagen, Rome, London, Dublin, Budapest, Istanbul, Helsinki, Athens and many more along the way. That may take me a few trips but I would love to hit all of the countries in Western Europe and eventually start doing the Eastern Block and maybe even Moscow. These are ambitious dreams but I hope to accomplish them. For now I can only look back on my four months with fond memories. It was the best experience of my life and I'm sad to see it go. For now it's back to normality and school in Boston. Not as exotic as Berlin but still pretty good.

Thanks to everyone who read this and I'm very happy to have an audience who enjoys my work. Good bye for now and thanks again.

For the final time

-Phil

Pinch Me it's Time To Present

Wednesday was our final critique for our projects. We spent the previous week building models and preparing drawings to show a panel of four critics. Well I was able to finish a day early and took the entire day tuesday to just really refine everything and make sure my presentation was in the order I wanted to present it. So we get to presentation day. As a group we presented our plan for the urban design of our project. This entails how our project reacts and how the urban technique we employed was fulfilled on the site. This was presented to all 10 critics and they weren't too pleased with our scheme because they said that it didn't look like we carried it out intentionally. So the presentations proceeded from there and they all went alright. No ones went bad but no one had a great one either. Needless to say I was nervous. I had not had a good critique in a long time and especially since my teacher and I had been butting heads the whole semester nervous was an understatement. I pulled myself together and presented like a champ. One of the best performances I have put up in a while. But then it happened. I needed to pinch myself. Roger one of the tough critics says "Your project is quite interesting, it works, and I really like it." I almost passed out. I half expected to hear my name being called and the other students trying to wake me up telling me it was my turn to present. But it was real! They loved my project and told me that they had to find something wrong with it just so I wouldn't get too excited. Well it was too late for that I was beaming and I don't think I've stopped yet.

Then at night we went over to café Bilder Buch for our reception. It was like the series finale of a sitcom. All of the old characters get to come back for one final hurrah. Most of our tour guides from the semester were there, all of the critics we had and local architects we met, researched or had any contact with during the semester. I spoke to my teacher and thanked her for kicking my ass the whole semester and told her how appreciative I was. Then I spoke to Roger for a while and got his individual take on my project. It was a nice evening and we had a lot of fun and were very glad to be done with semester and of course excited to return home on Saturday

Culture Shock

Friday was a hell of a day.

The morning started off with us going on a trip to Sachsenhausen. Sachsenhausen is the closest concentration camp to Berlin. While it was a work camp and not a death camp toward the end of the war it was used for mass killings. It is in the middle of a town now which in itself is a very strange thing. But as you approach the former walls there are blocks with name of the camp running across them every so many feet. Once you walk on to the grounds there is this eerie feeling. The sun was shinning and it was a beautiful day but something just didn't feel right standing there. Our tour guide was great and very knowledgable as he walked us around the entirety of the complex. Our first task was to walk down the camp road and through the main gate. We were informed this was the same path that the prisoners would come down when they were being taken into the camp. The gate and the guard houses in the camp are all still original but there are only two barracks left since the Soviets knocked them all down. But once you pass through that gate it feels as if your whole world changes. There is such a heavy feeling that right where you are standing some 300,000 people marched through on their way to work and possibly die. The camp is organized in a triangle with the main guard tower at the base to watch over all the barracks which were radially arranged. From the gate we walked over to the two reconstructed barracks to go inside. Here at these barracks lies another layer of history. They were reconstructed in the 60s when the camp became a memorial but then in the 1990's a group of Neo-Nazis came and attempted to burn them down. The walls still bare the char of the flames and its a further reminder that there is still prejudice in the world. Walking through the flame scarred barracks into the rooms that are laid out in the same fashion they were when the camp was operational was quite strange. The description on every room was the name of the room and then how people were tortured in it. Bedroom: Jews were smothered with sheets, Bathroom: Jews were drowned in foot basins. It may have been overkill but it was still very uneasy. From there we went to the real serious part of the camp. Known as Station Z because it was the Crematorium and the "Doctors" where they killed and cremated the bodies. It was Station Z because most people entered through Tower A and left through Station Z. We were able to walk in to the bunker where they lined people up to be shot. We stood against the same wall countless others stood against face to face with death. Then we were taken in to the "Doctors" office. Only the foundation remains but they rooms are still there. We saw the room where after being examined by the "Doctor" the people would go to be shot. One small room probably 3x3 where the blood of over 2,000 people was spilled. Right next to where we standing lives were taken on a daily basis. It was enough to make you ill if you thought about it. You learn about all this stuff in school but it honestly doesn't carry the same impact unless you basically stand in the shoes of those people.

We we got back from Sachsenhausen and were off the rest of our cultural roller coaster of a day. We were seeing a show at the Berlin Philharmonie. The Berlin Philharmonie is one of the most famous buildings in the world designed by Hans Scharoun and houses one of the most famous Orchestras in the world. Before he show Casey, Rob, and I were sitting enjoying a beer at the Sony Center when a bachelor party goer decided to strip down to his skivvies and attempt to swim across the fountain and he ate it as soon as he touched the fountain and then promptyl removed by security. We then found our way into the hall and into our seats. Our seats were great especially since there isn't a bad seat and they were only 10€. The show was made up of three Nordic pieces; a warm up and two longer pieces each with four movements. It was spectacular. I didn't fancy myself much of a fan of orchestral music but in that hall with that Orchestra it was awesome. It was a nice way to brighten our spirits after a depressing day at Sachsenhausen. So now its on the final week before the my final critique. Time to buckle down and get done.

Oktoberfest In April

Our last trip before the end of the semester was to München (Munich). We have been wanting to go since the beginning but found the time now since while we were there it was Starkbierzeit which in German translates to Strong Beer Time or Strong Beer Fest as it is now know. So we set off on our Bavarian adventure with our seven hour train ride. Unfortunately my train ride was the ride from hell. I sat next to a girl who smelled like she had rolled around in Tacobell that someone had thrown up. I was nauseous for the 4 hours she was next to me. Also on the train was the screaming baby who's mother found it hysterical to just let her daughter scream. So after that we finally arrived in Munich and settled into our hostel. We took a walk down MarrienPlatz and down toward the Oktoberfest grounds just to check em out. Me and Rob and Casey went to go meet my friend Kevin who's been in Munich for over a year now so he could show us around and we could hangout with him. We went and grabbed a beer and caught up while we waited for Blake, Kyle and Blake's friend Will. We met up with them and went over to a Beer Garden to have some traditional Bavarian food and our first taste of Starkbier. It has a slight spicy flavor and is very very dark. We enjoyed our meal and went to experience some of the local nightlife before retiring to bed.

The next morning we wake up and get out of the Hostel as fast as possible and after a pain in the ass we finally make it to the other hostel. After that we headed over to the famous 1972 Olympic Stadium. It was incredible place. A huge Olympic campus with a pool complex, and soccer stadium and a large pond in the middle. The roof of the stadium is like a cloth draped over some columns. It was a gorgeous day and we hung out and walked around. We were even able to get cheap boats to rent to go out on the lake. After that we made it back to the hostel and got changed to get ready to go to the festival grounds. The festival was like everything I could have imagined. There was at least 3000 people there. They served the beer in 1L pitchers that were ceramic for the purpose of banging them together when you "Prost" which is german for cheers. We really enjoyed ourselves. Especially when we went inside the hall and there were another 2000 people standing on table and singing along while a band played Beatles music. It was a great time. We tried afterward to sneak out the mugs we were drinking out of but after hopping fences and sneaking through gaps we were foiled and pretty much tackled by guards. Happy but slightly disappointed we headed back to our room to catch some much needed Z's. We all said good bye and made it to the train the next morning with no problem. The train ride was cake. No screaming children or unbathed adults. For our last trip it was amazing and I only have three German cities that I still want to go to; Stuttgart, Frankfurt, and Hanover but those will have to wait until next time.

Will There Be A Future?

I'm going to use this blog post a rant. Our Seminar class deals with issues of sustainability and climate change, both architecturally, socially and politically. In the past weeks we have seen charts and graphs and many depressing statistics about how we are reaching the "tipping point". The tipping point is the point at which all the damage we have inflicted on the planet becomes irreversible and there is nothing we can do to slow down the process that will make an impact. We have also seen examples of architects and planners who are trying to change this. Both in their designs and writings these people believe that we have not come too far and we can live comfortably without destroying the planet in the process.

Here in Germany the idea of a sustainable lifestyle is paramount. Recycling is encouraged, buildings don't use air condition or heating, and there are solar or photovoltaic cells everywhere. Germans live very comfortable loves too. They don't suffer in the Summer or the Winter. They understand that fossil fuels and the waste of energy is lead to the eventual demise of our own society.

So what is understood here is not even accepted as fact in America. If you were building and office building in New York and you said for reasons of energy efficiency I plan on leaving out the HVAC systems you would be laughed out of the city. But that is because Americans don't understand proper building techniques like it seems most of the rest of the world does. If a building is properly insulated on all sides and there allowed adequate room for cross ventilation on all floors they building won't need to run air conditioning except for hot days and won't need heating except for bitter cold days. Then if the building is made from a thermal mass, ie: concrete, it won't require heat at all. Concrete draws heat from its surroundings, like office workers and electronics and then at night can be cooled down through the use of ventilation and will cool the building the next day through the same means. Also radiant heat can be used to heat building too. This heat is usually in the floor in most American cities but that is extremely inefficient. If you have radiant heat in the floor when it is being emitted if you are sitting on a bed or chair or desk you will not feel any heat because you are in what's called a radiant shadow. So the structure between you and the floor is absorbing the heat before you can. Having it in th ceiling like all European buildings that employ it is much more effective. Since radiant heat is not air driven it doesn't only rise. It spreads evenly. so since there is less furniture on the ceiling of buildings there is no radiant shadow.

There are plenty of other techniques that majority of Americans are ignorant to. And it isn't just designers its politicians too. Although my political leaning is left our president is equally as ignorant to the sustainable issue too. They cut funding from schools and infrastructure that research these technologies and will not fund companies that are already developing the technology. John Boehner is equally as stupid on this fact. Saying that he " not believe it has been proven that CO2 is harmful to the atmosphere" sighting that the CO2 we exhale can't be that harmful because its in our body. he then adds that when cows "do what they do" the CO2 they release can't be harmful either. This infuriates me that an elected politician can be so naive and stupid about basic information. 1st its been proven by scientists that CO2 is harmful to the atmosphere. 2nd our exhalation isn't harmful because it is immediately absorbed by plants. 3rd cows release methane which is up to 4X as harmful as CO2. Now maybe he's playing stupid for political gain but either way it forces me to lose a lot of faith in our government. They play on the minds of the ignorant and purposely retard the countries progress forward.

America has all the resources to develop a new source of energy or something beneficial to a sustainable future. If they ever did it would provide such an economic boost and revolutionize energy production and transportation for ever. Revenue would be generated like wild since new companies would pop up, old oil companies would adapt new business models for this technology and there would be plenty of healthy competition. But ignorant politicians like Mr. Boehner and President Obama refuse to think that this is their problem. Truthfully it's not their problem its mine. My generation is going to have to deal with the ensuing planetary crisis. I just wish more people would see this and educate themselves and make informed decisions and maybe create enough noise so that the politicians have no choice but to act. If rebels in every middle eastern country can organize and execute a revolt via Facebook we should be able to reach our politicians some how.

We only get one planet and we need to save it.

Insert Cliché Czech/Check Joke Here

So This past weekend we had a trip to Prague in the Czech Republic and then to Dresden back in Germany. We arrived in Prague after about a 5 hour train ride. Prague is absolutely beautiful. Without a doubt my favorite city in Europe. Unfortunately Czech is the most screwed up language that we've encountered thus far. And not nearly enough people speak English for the tourist destination Prague is.

initially we walked around and just explored some the local works of Czech Cubism as direct reaction to the Modern Movement in the Czech Republic. Prague is a beautiful city because it is not the typical Roman city with temples and classical buildings nor is it the Gothic town with large cathedrals with spires and sharp edges. Prague is a purely medieval town. There is the Prague castle and tons of old medieval fragments from the bridges, tunnels and clock tower. When one walks through Prague all of the Orange roofs and old medieval buildings give this quaint feel to this bustling urban area. We were staying at the Czech Inn which is funny in itself. But it was a really nice place and probably the nicest hostel we've stayed in.

So Saturday morning it was up early for our 9 hour walking tour of Prague. It was a gorgeous day so it was spectacular. We walked all through the streets. Through tight alleys and wide green spaces. We eventually made it up to the Prague Castle which is more of a Baroque fortress but is beautiful anyway. Our tour guide Milosh (Me-low-sh) was very knowledgable and pretty much sounded like he was the original planner of the city. We walked down from the castle with the sun still beaming over toward the Lenon Wall. On the way I passed my first Lock Bridge and search frantically for a place with a lock that I could lock on there but to no avail. Just beyond that was the Lenon Wall. This amazing thing is a wall that was graffitied after John Lenon was shot with an anti communist message and has since become the only wall in Prague where you can legally graffiti and write whatever you want on it. There are layers upon layers of history on there. Right on the other side of the wall is where a tree where Mozart sat to compose some of his earlier music.Some of the other attractions we visited in Prague are St. Charles bridge the beautiful medieval bridge and the Dancing House by Frank Gehry. The it was time to experience Prague's nightlife. I'd relate here if I was legally allowed to but certain factors may prohibit me.

The Next morning it was up even earlier because we had a tour of Adolf Loos' Villa Müller. It was a pretty cool place although very boring from the outside. It was organized so that from the central stair you could see into all the rooms of the house at once. This technique is called Raumplan. After that I spent the afternoon searching for a padlock only to be alerted that it is padlock to lock it on the bridge without the other person there. So we all headed back to the Hostel and hopped a train to Dresden.

We got into Dresden late and went to grab some food then went over to a local Irish pub for some live Irish music, Guinness and Cider. After enjoying ourselves there it was off to bed to be up early especially since the clocks went ahead.

So the day in Dresden was led by our man Helmut. He took us all around the city and described us his time living in Dresden as a youngster. He recalled to us the first time he heard rock music since it was banned in East Germany. He said "it was better than the first sex, not that that's particularly good anyway but it was incredible to hear rock music." The rest of our day preceded seeing many of Dresden's church and other buildings that were destroyed by allied bombing or narrowly survived. It was at lunch that I was talking with Helmut about some of the communist era buildings and he said something very profound. We were talking about how these buildings were supposed to be "permanent" but he said "what is permanence in the scale of a few hundred years of the life of men". This resonated with me for a second and made me realize how special every opportunity I have and every person in my life is and how fast I could lose it all. Nothing is permanent but it doesn't matter as long as you enjoy the time you have. Our final stop in Dresden was a Synagogue built where one was burnt down by the Nazis on November 9th. It was a magnificent space but they did not have enough yarmulke for all the men so we had to walk in with scarves and handkerchiefs and anything else available on our heads. The space was very serene and perfect for contemplation. But we had no time as we had to run back to the HBF to catch our train back to Berlin.

We got in at 9:30 exhausted from a long and action packed weekend.

Down and Dirty in the Studio

So the past week has been stress packed days. Trying to get a design down to be able to present at the midterm critique. The added pressure of only having 5 weeks left makes a suitable design all the more important. Well after emailing my teacher I actually got some positive feedback and proceeded as planned. The weekend of Friday and saturday was filled with full days in the studio modeling and late nights working on drawings and unwinding. Working tirelessly on minimal sleep I finally produced all of the required drawings and models and put together a presentation I was confident in at around 5pm sunday night. This was great it gave me a chance to kick back grab a beer and unwind before Monday morning when I had to present to 4 critics. After enjoying a meal, a beer, and a movie I decided to go to sleep and get some good Z's before the critique. I slept soundly and woke up on Monday morning anxious to see if I had actually produced something worthwhile for my teacher. I nervously watched the first three students and then it was my turn. I got up there and put on a good show. They weren't sold on my design but the idea were there and I was showing promise. No scowls from my professor and no tirades. She smiled, backed me up on somethings, and looked genuinely satisfied. I felt happy and contently watched the rest of my colleagues present, some better than others. So that night we wanted to celebrate but everyone was too tired and I still was not feeling good. We grabbed a few beers and a cigar and relaxed on our balcony until our neighbor across the street told us he was calling the cops. We promptly went inside and watched a movie before settling into bed for the night.

Tuesday morning we had to meet Jan our history professor at 8:20 for a tour of the Kultur Forum which has two buildings by Hans Scharoun and one by Mies Van Der Rohe. We toured the Stadtsbibliotheke (City Library) and the Berlin Philharmonie both by Scharoun and walked around the Neue Naticional Gallerie (New National Gallery) by Mies for the majority of the day. I'm not a huge fan of Mies buildings they are so simple they bore me. But the Scharoun buildings were awesome and I'm definitely excited to go back to the Philharmonie and see the Berlin Philharmonic play. After that we were scheduled for another tour through our "culture" class which was another repeat tour so me and my sickness decided to skip it.

After that tour we were supposed to meet the professors again to go to a presentation at a firm. The firm Ziegert | Roswag | Seiler was incredible. The internationally famous Eike Roswag gave us the presentation on how he and his firm of civil engineers and architects are striving to create sustainable buildings from earth construction. Earth Construction is using natural materials like mud and adobe to create structures that because of the moisture exchange of the material do not require HVAC systems. It was incredible. He goes to under developed countries and takes their historic tribal forms and readapts them into a more modern and sustainable architecture. It was incredible to actually see some one who does all of these projects as a volunteer. So nice to see some one so genuinely committed to bettering the world. The two and half hour presentation and after period had my attention the whole time. It was honestly life changing. I'm inspired now to do amazing things and hopefully use my architecture to change the world someday.

Tomorrow we head of to Prague until Saturday and then Dresden until Sunday on our final program sponsored trip. And then in two weeks the guys and I head to Munich for our last travels of the semester. Time is winding down here and I feel like I have learned so much in these short months than i my entire time at school.

Check back soon for the Prague/Dresden edition

Stay Classy Followers and Thank you for your continued reading